Friday, June 11, 2010

The Cascades

We left our little oasis at The Sun Mountain Lodge early this morning, around 6 am, to drive into Seattle.  They were kind enough to pack us a breakfast-to-go and fill our coffee mugs, and off we went.

My friend Maria, from Philadelphia, had told me about the North Cascades National Park and how we should drive through it on our way to Seattle.  Gorgeous, she said, and no one there.  Well, she was absolutely right!! 

Our first views were spectacular!  The clouds, the snow, the jagged peaks.  We saw dozens of mule deer by the side of the road.  But not a single car.  For two hours!

We stopped for breakfast at Diablo Lake ... it is beautiful.  There was a small pavilion with some seats and wonderful views.


The temperature was about 41 degrees, so I was bundled up in three sweaters, eating (the world's most delicious granola) through chattering teeth.



We continued on our way and were amazed at the rapidly shifting weather.  Clouds and sun, blue sky and misty rain that with just a slight drop would have been snow flakes.
















Not a lot of talking during the four hour trip into Seattle.  Mostly we just stared in wonder, in awe.  It felt so remote, and so rugged.  Such beauty.  

And if you're like us, and prefer to feel as if you might be the only person there - rather than trucking along in the middle of a long line of rubber-neckers at Yellowstone, then do like Maria said ... and go see The Cascades.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

From There To Here

When we began planning our trip we were focused on things we’d like to see, places we’d like to go, and where we could find the coolest summer weather.  We threw around ideas like Quebec, Mackinac Island,  Banff.  We  enjoy State and National Parks, pleasant walks in downtown parks and along rivers, we like history and places that we’ve read about in books.  We like going back to places where we’ve been - if the food is good, and the beds were comfortable.We knew we had about eight weeks to play with, probably being on the road for about four.  It seemed like a reasonable plan.

Then, through a series of events around us we found ourselves with some new parameters:  a funeral in May, a graduation in June and a conference in July.  The “bad” thing was they were in Pennsylvania, Seattle and San Antonio.  Our trip was doomed!  Our plans were scotched!  Our budget was blown!  We’d be flying all over creation rather than having a lovely little vacation.

Or maybe....?

Joe began thinking of a way to do this, and before long we had a new plan. Plan B was “Do It All.”  (Isn’t that always Plan B?)  Leave Florida in late May and head up the east coast, turning left at Philadelphia and then driving to Seattle for the graduation.  Then left again, down to San Francisco (how about an opera?) and over the Sierra Nevadas in to San Antonio July 1 ... and then home! 

It began to seem doable and so we set off.  One of the very nicest developments was the addition of family to our itinerary.  We met up in Washington DC (Joe was in NYC and I took the Auto Train) and luckily my sister and her husband moved there recently.  They joined us for an evening out in Cambridge, MD on the Chesapeake bay where we sampled Crab Cakes and cool breezes as the sun went down.  We sat in large rockers, watching the sky turn pink and purple and the water darken.  The gulls circled slowly in the sky and  even though it wasn’t cold, we could have had a nice bonfire (especially after Laurie and I had seen the S’mores kits at the concierge desk).  We exhibited great restraint and did NOT buy the kits to eat without fire.

From there we drove to Philadelphia where I got to visit some landmark historical sites and a good friend! We stayed near Logan Square and had some wonderful city walks as well as fabulous dinners.  And then we headed west, across the Allegheny Mountains into Sharon, PA.  Joe was born here many moons ago, as was his father before him.  Joe’s dad, also named Joe, was a pilot in the Army during WWII and died in a crash in September 1944, just three months before his son was born.  The funeral we would attend was that of his aunt, the oldest sibling of his dad.

We were welcomed with open arms by cousins, aunts, uncles, friends and other relatives.  There were tables laden with food - most of it traditional Slovak dishes - and coolers of cold soda, pots of coffee and a large tent with tables and chairs on the grass.  After a lovely Mass in honor of Aunt Aggie, we all went back to the house to reminisce, to tell stories, to listen, to laugh, to hug.  There were some emotional encounters with family members. A chance to listen to the elders who were, back then, the youngers. We felt connected to the Wellers, Mihalcins, Zreliaks...and others. 

From Sharon we drove to Columbus, OH.  What a great college town.  We met up with Joe’s cousin (on his mom’s side this time) for dinner at a neat little restaurant and had a chance to reminisce again, over a time not quite as long gone by... and to catch up with our families and children and pets and travels. 

From Columbus it was on to Urbana, IL (another cousin on his mom’s side) and another wonderful dinner with grown kids, sad stories of loss and passionate discussions of earthquakes and oil spills. We had the pleasure of congratulating a couple of recent college grads (a BS and a PhD) and again the feeling of family and connection was both heartwarming and convivial.

Moving through the midwest we headed north toward Minneapolis and met up with Joe’s sister and her husband for a delightful pizza dinner.  Even though it was the last week of school (she is a teacher) and she was feeling ill, Barbara and Alan were wonderful hosts and it was such a pleasure to have a simple dinner, catching up and laughing and enjoying each other’s company.  Their daughter lives in California, and their son is in active duty with the US Navy in the Middle East.  I was quite moved by the Active Duty star on her collar.  He should be home August 15 - which just happens to be her daughter’s birthday.  How cool is that?

We headed west then ... toward Seattle.  Our middle daughter will graduate from college on June 13.  What a blessing!  What a day!  But between Minneapolis and Seattle we have a lot to see, a lot to explore.  Fargo, The Badlands, Helena, MT,  Whitefish and Glacier, and then Idaho. Some repeats from our trip last year, some new spots which are now favorites!

Today we have stopped for a full day.  No driving.  We are in the Methow Valley, just east of the Cascades...in fact, we can see them from our balcony.  The rugged, immense peaks covered in snow.  Yet our little high-desert mountain is sunny, warm and breezy.  Birds galore!  I’ve seen a Varied Thrush, and a Purple Finch!  Two new species for me.   This particular mountain is criss-crossed with trails and we have taken numerous walks, amazed at the vistas.  The air is dry, the landscapes are gorgeous.  We are but 3 hours from Seattle.

Where we head tomorrow.  Into the city.  Graduation! Laundry! Celebration! Parking Hassles! Life in all its glory will present yet another face.  And tomorrow we will have made quite a journey - from the Chesapeake Bay to Puget Sound.  Much of it dotted with pearls of family connection, treasures for the memory.  Nothing extraordinary, just blessedly, humanly ordinary.

And then another turn.

Birding

I’m not a professional birder.  I never will be.  In my mind these people are thin, ancient with hooked-beak noses and translucent skin.  They all have blue eyes.  Rheumy, in a way, from staring through binoculars for hours at a time.  They can walk silently for hours, for miles, days at a time.  They can identify birds by call, by sight, within seconds of seeing a flash of darting feathers flit from tree to tree.  In the shadows.  They make notes, copious notes, and compare them with the notes they made previously.  They remember names.  They would never say Scaup unless they meant it.  They have one or two thousand species on their life lists.  They don’t sweat.  I’m sure there are also fabulously fit, gorgeous birders with binoculars that weigh 50 lbs that can see into bat caves, and these folks, too, can hike for days across desert or mountain without breaking a sweat, or mis-naming a warbler.


I’m sure they’re all very nice.  However, that’s not me.  I’m dumpy and trudge through the woods, and if there is an uphill (especially in altitudes above 2,000 ft) I huff and puff like the big bad wolf.  I often see birds but am also distracted by squirrels.  As well as the amazing, intricate and delicate flowers that line the path of the trail.  I see them because my head is bent down, under the weight of the binoculars and I’m doing everything I can to keep going.  Thoughts of bears flit through my mind - from corner to corner - with vivid images, usually based on the movie “Grizzly Man.”  I hear bird calls, and they make me smile, I love knowing the birds are there.  I feel their presence. But I don’t think that counts on life lists.

Every now and then all the elements coincide and I am standing still, I have my binoculars and a bird alights somewhere out in the open.  And voila!  I can see him (her?) through my lenses.  Up close, the strong beak, the quick, bright eyes.  The strong, skinny feet clutching a branch or a fence wire.  And on a particularly good day while I’m looking the bird will open it’s mouth and sing ... and I’m mesmerized.  I can hear it AND see it.  It is up close and amazingly real.


Real beyond just being there.  Real beyond just sensing it’s presence.

And, a couple of times I have been able to identify a new species while this is happening.  A yelloow-headed blackbird, a western meadowlark, a mountain chickadee.  Mostly, however, I say to myself “small, brown, there’s a stripe there by it’s eye...looks like its in the sparrow family ... maybe warbler...hmmm”  Yeah.  I’m not a professional.

Even in my outrageously amateurish participation in birding (and believe me, all you professionals I’m using that to describe my activities VERY loosely) every now and then I get a deep, gorgeous thrill when I see a bird .... I know it is one I have never seen before ... and from the depths of my memory I hear “Gray Jay” or “Green Winged Teal” ... and I’m right! 

But the thrill is not in being right.  The thrill comes in seeing, in really, truly seeing the bird. Opening my mind, my heart my life to the possibility that some wild creature may cross my path and I actually notice it.  I don’t get anything from it, no picture, no scaling up the ladder of life-lists, no pat on the back, no yummy meat for dinner.


Just a chance encounter with something so unique, so amazing, so complicated and so fabulous.  And all I have to do is stop.  Open my eyes.  And see. 

(This last photo is one that I actually took - and I think it is a Gray Jay ... there was a family of 5 ... and I'm still thrilled!)

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Slowing Down

I've often felt, when flying to far-off locales, that I arrived and left bodily before my mind and heart even got there.  So I was operating under a kind of out-of-body experience.  Yes, I was there.  Sort of.  But it wasn't until after I got home - and had been home - that I finally felt the experience sink in.

I blamed it on the mode of travel.  Air travel gives this illusion that I can, and should, move very fast.  Except for the mess TSA has made of airports, the basic idea is that I should be able to pick myself up out of my southern, suburban environs and land in Budapest or Prague or Berlin in about 8 hours .... refreshed from a nice nap on the plane and ready to dive into another culture and all that it offers.

Whoa!  I love traveling, and have been luckier than most to have been all over the world.  But it never quite worked like that!  And, I felt like I was always running to catch up with "everyone else" who was.

Now that we're doing our traveling by car I've felt a little more present in the bodily experience.  I actually enjoy the transitions from one place to another.  I feel myself moving from one place to another, along a trajectory that is somewhat more logical and do-able.  And while I can't always identify what is actually growing in the field outside my window, I do recognize that it is something different from the last place.  Or not (I do have to say they grow a freaking LOT of corn in Illinois!).

And yet.

I have been traveling for two weeks now.  Awhile back, I left home and went to a conference in Ocala, which is about 3 hours south of where I live.  From there (or near there) I took the Auto-Train to Lortin, VA.  That was great ... train travel may not be fancy or exotic, but it is fun and it felt very efficient for me to be sleeping all night while my car and I were moved along I-95.

Joe met me at the train station and my car was off-loaded after about 30 minutes.  Much quicker than I had thought, and we were on our way.  We drove through the Chesapeake area over to Cambridge, MD where we spent an evening with my sister and her husband who recently moved to the area.

And thus began our Summer Trip.  A mixture of driving, talking, music, family, walking and sampling small town America.  Well, we went from Cambridge to Philadelphia, so it's not all small towns.  But we stay off of Interstates for the most part and stop when something interesting or funny or delicious catches our eye.

We're listening to a course from The Teaching Company called "America Before 1776" which has been fascinating and fun.

We've had Maryland Crab Cakes and Philly Cheesesteaks (about which, I learned, you don't use the word Philly).  We've seen Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell.  We ate at one of the best restaurants in our whole lives - The Fountain Room - overlooking Logan Square.

We spent Memorial Day Weekend in the tiny hamlet of Hermitage, PA where we attended a Memorial Mass for Joe's aunt who had passed away in January.  They interred her ashes in the same cemetery, and right next to, the plot where his dad is buried.  It was quite moving to be among relatives who knew his dad, and who were so grateful to meet Joe ... and could see his dad in him.  Sitting under a tent, in the back yard of a small house, sharing home-made food and listening to octogenarians share their memories and tales of the war, life and death has had a profound effect on us both.

Slowing down is good.  Good for the soul.  Good for the body. 

My blog is still about a week behind ... this fast paced world of the Internet is zipping along at lightning speed, connecting me and my kids and friends and continues to provide me the opportunity to know too much about too many things. 

After just a week of meandering through the Midwest, visiting with family we don't see very often, and sampling the home-made delights of various good cooks, I feel a palpable relief from the pressures and calls of information, disaster, frenzy and "necessity."

Slowing down feels possible.  And, I wonder if by the end of the trip my body, mind, soul and blog will all be in the same place, on the same day.

We'll see.

Monday, May 31, 2010

Midwestern Travels

Today we're in Urbana.

Over the last week we have spent time with family in Maryland, Pennsylvania, Ohio and now tonight in Illinois.  We have one more stop - Minnesota - and then its just us for a while.

Each stop has been fun and engaging.  It's been good to see family that we don't get to spend much time with ... and to catch up and feel connected.

And, we've meandered through countless back roads, eaten at wonderful diners, and enjoyed the picturesque charm of what Sarah Palin calls "Real America."

I've had my first opportunity to be welcomed into a cafe with my "properly registered concealed weapon" and was thanked for providing extra security.  If I happened to have a gun with me.  Which I don't.  The sleepy little town of Roswell OH didn't look to me like it needed the extra protection, but what do I know?  I don't live in "Real America" - I live in Florida.

Indiana has a fine, heritage-embracing love affair going on with the Confederate Flag!  How delightful!  I felt so at home.  And here all this time I thought Indiana was more of a Northern State!  Who knew??  Why they have quite a lot of sympathy, empathy and love of Southern heritage.  Imagine my surprise when, in the middle of downtown Indianapolis, they have a GIGANTIC (and I mean GIGANTIC) Civil War monument ... to the Union Army!  "Real America" embraces itself! 

And then coming into Urbana the good folks at "Guns Save Life dot Com" provide entertaining and informative signage letting me know that "Shooting sports are safe and fun, there's no need to fear a gun" ... Whew!

Why I am feeling ever so much more relieved knowing that I'm surrounded by so many guns!!

Take that you Kenyan Muslim Gun-hating President Obama!

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Ebbs and Flows

Life is full of ebbs and flows ... periods of insane busyness and hurry ... followed by a time of peace.
These days have been rather busy ... the planning, packing, organizing.
Feeling out of the moment.
Trying to plan for and know the unknowable.
Like the weather.
But there is just nothing I can do about that.
I can throw another sweatshirt in the bag...and another pair of shorts, too.
A bathing suit, and something to wear to an opera.
Will it rain? Will it be cold?
Just how hot can it get in San Antonio in July?
The cat has an ear infection.
Better get that foaming liquid in both ears ... and the drops.
And the antibiotic.
Where are the binoculars? Do I have a bird book for Oregon?
Texas?  In July?  Really?
Grass is growing among the flagstones.
The floor is beginning to look like a floor - it is solid.
But organic.
I'm too fat to meet them for lunch in Philly.
Walk the labyrinth.
One more time.
And again.
Breathe.
All will be well.
All is well.

Monday, May 10, 2010

More Stones - BIG ONES!


Laid flagstones in the Pergola today.

Not a bad day's work - should finish it up tomorrow.  Only a few blisters!

I'll be glad when the Wisteria and 
Cross Vine grow up and give some
shade!